Q: Can I use a pre-fab fireplace outdoors?

A: Yes! There are versions that are more stainless steel and not as subject to rusting. They are best when used under a pavillion but the outdoor version can be used out in the open.


Q: If  I tear out my pre-fab fireplace, can I put a fireplace insert in it’s place inside the wall?

A: No. The insert requires an existing fireplace. There are no protections if done without one. The zero-clearance units have cabinets built around the unit itself to protect combustibles from heat.

If you plan to rebuild the fireplace, keep in mind that there are COMPLETELY different rules, regulations and building codes for masonry fireplaces.


Q: What are the differences between a fireplace and a woodstove?

A: An open fireplace is nice and adds ambience to your home but it is NOT efficient. Woodstoves are. The principles of draft are: hot air rises. Cold air sinks. Air rising will be replaced by more air. When hot air rises, it pulls the heated air out of your home. Some radiant heat does exist with a fireplace, but about 70% of the heat goes up the chimney and the air being pulled out of the room is replaced by cold, unheated air. Air needed for an open fireplace to burn cannot be controlled, even with doors, and your wood is used up very quickly.

A wood stove (or fireplace insert) is a closed appliance that is far more efficient and can control the burn rate of your wood, making it last longer and radiating more heat into your home over a longer period of time.

Q: I just cut a tree down. Can I use that in my woodstove or fireplace insert?

A: Short answer: no. Save it for your firepit in the backyard.

Green wood, or freshly cut wood or wood cut but not stored in a shed, has water in it. A LOT of water. Wood is very porous. Water does not burn. Inside the firebox (woodstove, fireplace insert or even a fireplace) water heated turns to steam.  It lower your firebox temperature, turn your glass black and will smother the fire. It is also the beginning of creosote. If you hear hissing or see water fizzing out of the ends of the wood, it is too green and should not be used in a closed appliance.

Q: What is the proper way to store wood?
A: The 4 S’s-
Stored in a 3-sided shed
Six months or more beforehand

If you must keep it outside and cannot build a shed, you can use a tarp as long as the ends are lifted up to allow air to circulate. If it is covered, it’s like keeping it in a baggie- the moisture cannot get out.


Q: Can a fireplace insert be put into a prefab fireplace and can I alter my pre-fab fireplace so the insert will fit?

A: Yes. Some Fireplace inserts can be used in prefabs IF LISTED TO DO SO AND IF THE INSERT IS LISTED FOR IT. Some firebox manufacturers do not list wood burning inserts for their prefabs. Some woodstove manufacturers accept that liability BUT you have to confirm that with the dealer. They have the paperwork and can tell you if it is ok to do so.

You CANNOT alter your prefab fireplace to accept an insert. Nothing can be changed from an existing pre-fab except the curtain screens. All refractory panels must be in place for protection.


Q: What is needed when using an insert in a prefab fireplace or masonry fireplace?

A: If all the listings say yes to using the insert, the first thing is to measure for size. Determining what unit to get depends on how big the firebox is, what room it’s going into and how much will be realistically heated. Do not over buy just because you want a BIG unit. Dealers will be glad to sell a large unit all day long but if it is too large for your situation, you will be miserable. So a little homework is a good thing.

After deciding on a unit, the chimney needs to be cleaned and inspected. Always start with a fresh flue. Also the interior flue measurement is needed. If the flue is too large, a stainless steel liner must be used. The dealer or installer can determine if that is needed.


Q: What are the different types of chimney pipe?

A: There are 2: Chimney Connector Pipe (black pipe) and Class A chimney pipe (insulated or air-cooled).

The black pipe is called chimney connector pipe because it literally connects your wood stove to the chimney. It is pipe that must be seen. It is NEVER out of sight. Black pipe must never go through a wall or ceiling, never be used as chimney liner pipe or used outside. Being un-insulated, it does not last as long as the insulated pipe and must be seen in order to be inspected and/or replaced as needed. It is usually 24 gauge, single-wall and has an 18″ clearance from combustibles. During installation, the small end or “male end” goes down towards the stove in the current wood stoves. If any creosote forms, it will flow inside the pipe into the one beneath it and ultimately in to the stove. If done with the male end up, creosote will ooze down the outside of the pipe and into your room.

There is a second type of black pipe called Close Clearance pipe. It has an air-cooled section and allows the black pipe to get closer to combustibles. BUT the wood stove clearances must be followed. It will have the final say on how close to the wall you can get.

Class A pipe is the chimney. With proper maintenance and use, Class A pipe can last 20 years or more depending on the manufacturer’s testing. It has a stainless steel inner pipe. Class A pipe goes through the ceiling, through attic space (if any) or upper floors (if any) and out of the roof. The clearances for Class A pipe are usually 2″ to combustibles but that is manufacturer-specific so it must be confirmed before installation. When using Class A, you must stay with the same manufacturer from start to finish. Chimney pipe from one manufacturer cannot be on another.


Q: What do I need under or behind my wood stove?

A: The stove itself will have specific requirements for floor protection. Some wood stoves need Type 1 protection. That means for ember protection. Other stoves require Type 2 which is for heat and ember protection. If your stove requires Type 1 protection, you can use Type 2. But never the other way around. Each stove has a floor protection size requirements as well. But from any door on the stove, 16″-18″ minimum is required. You may not want to have floor protection that large, but that is what is called for. Each stove is different on the sides and back. Hearth Rugs are for BEYOND that 16-18″ limit. There are no fireproof rugs and should NEVER be used under a wood stove.

Also, wall protection is listed on each stove. Some stoves have heat shields on the back (or as options) and they can be used to get closer to the wall if used with Close Connector pipe. If you want stone, tile or another non-combustible wall covering  and it touches the wall behind it, the wall is considered combustible and the clearances for that type of set up must be followed. If the stove DOES NOT LIST IT, YOU CANNOT USE IT. Combustible surfaces over time can char and turn into a combustible material. That is why clearances and materials used to reduce them must be approved by the manufacturer.

Q: Do I need protection under my freestanding gas unit?

A: It depends on what the manufacturer has it listed to go. Some have restrictions for vinyl or carpet but a Type 1 stove board or non-combustible floor protection can be used. NOT a hearth rug. There are no fireproof rugs.


Q: Can I use a TV over my gas logs?

A: Of course! If using a manufactured vent-free box, there are requirements for mantle placement and size. We do recommend to recess the TV at least 6″ if possible after having met those requirements. If possible, test the heat output before placing the TV

Q: Are gas products safe? What are the differences between vent-free, vented and direct-vent gas logs/products?

A: Yes! Gas products are safe. Gas products have gone through rigorous testing and are safe! There are safety features built in to keep you and your family safe.

Vent-free: Does not require a chimney. They are engineered to be operated with out one. You get the heat and the looks. They can be used in a traditional masonry fireplace, prefab fireplace or a vent free firebox or as a complete unit fashioned like a wood stove. No electricity is required.

The logs must be placed as the manufacturer specifies. If they are out of place, they will off-gas and produce soot. Glass doors can NEVER be used on vent free logs. It requires air to operate. As for maintenance, it is always better to clean them before using them each season. Dust can give off a slight odor. Please contact your dealer for the proper way to clean your unit.

Vented: Requires a chimney. Vented logs and units are very attractive but since they require a chimney, most of the heat rises up and exits the chimney. You can NEVER use glass doors on a fireplace with vented logs. It require air to operate. No electricity is required unless a blower is used.

They can be used in a traditional masonry fireplace, prefab fireplace or freestanding gas unit with the proper piping. Please contact your dealer for the correct pipe to be used.

As for maintenance, it is always better to clean them before using them each season. Dust can give off a slight odor. Please contact your dealer for the proper way to clean your unit.

Direct Vent: Direct vent units have many design choices. They have are a sealed unit with a fine-mesh screen in front of the glass. They can be used as a fireplace insert or as a freestanding unit. Both require the proper piping. They do not require electricity unless a blower is used.

As for maintenance, the consumer can only wipe down the outside of the unit. Being sealed, there is no way or need to clean the logs or burner base.


Q: Do you offer a return policy?

A: Yes. Almost all of our products are able to be returned as long as they have not been used, opened or tampered with. Our services are (of course) not refundable due to the fact that the service has been rendered. The only exceptions are special order products. Depending on what it is, it would be subject to a restocking fee or it would be non-returnable.

Q: How much does the shipping cost?

A: We do not ship stoves or chimney pipe. We can ship small items such as short sections of pipe, gasket etc. Shipping costs depend on USPS or UPS it’s weight, box size etc. Long sections of pipe are easily damaged and woodstoves and gas logs are cost prohibitive.

Q: Do you offer any type of Price Match Guarantee?

A: No. We pride ourselves on being the most economical company with our line of products. We try to keep our products in stock so when you are need it, you can have it and do not have to wait for it to arrive.

Q: I have been told not to use pine in my wood stove. Is pine ok to use? What is the best types of wood to use?

A: Pine is ok to use. We use it in our stoves in the showroom. Being a soft wood, it does not create the good bed of coals needed for a long burn time though. Stay away from the “lighter-pine”. If you smell turpentine, do not use it. If it is freshly cut pine, it will create creosote in your stove and chimney.

*IMPORTANT* Pine has to be split-stacked-stored for at least 9-12 months prior using in a wood stove or insert. Being soft, it is very porous and absorbs water easily. Sweetgum, pine and poplar fall into the category of soft woods.

Oak, hickory, maple are examples of hardwoods that are the best for using in a wood stove or insert. They create the good bed of long lasting coals that are needed for producing long term heat. Hardwoods still have to split-stacked-stored for six months prior to using.

Serving your fireplace & wood heating needs in Georgia & Alabama since 1975